
A while back on these pages, I said that I had never had whiskey before I embarked on the Bar Book Project. This weekend, upon making my first Manhattan, I remembered that this was incorrect. Last February (almost exactly one year ago in fact) during a weekend visit to a friend’s home in the mountains of Vermont, I had my first whiskey drink. After a day of sledding and luxuriating the way one does on a snowy weekend in Vermont (by fires), our gracious host made us up a round of “Snowhattans” which were, of course, Manhattans made not with ice but with fresh fallen snow. My memory of that drink was that it was tasty, though I remember being very unaccustomed to whiskey at the time. Oh, the difference a year makes.
This February, with another snowy weekend upon me thanks to the ridiculously named blizzard Nemo, I made my own Snowhattan with some bondafide Manhattan snow, gathered carefully from the fire escape outside my bedroom window. As it turns out, making the Manhattan on this weekend was really the only option. It was the most perfect of Manhattan weekends. It’s worth remembering, so if you don’t mind a tangent or two, I’ll tell you about it.
On Friday night, with the weather people and the mayors and the governors all telling everyone in the Northeast and New England to stay home, my good friend, known here as The Best Deal in Town, and I decided to brave the elements in order to grab drinks. We decided on meeting at Grand Central, as it’s convenient for both his and my respective trains. We attempted first to go to the Oyster Bar, but were told they were closing at 8 pm ahead of the storm, and turned away. Instead, we decided to try out the Campbell Apartment, the “secret” upscale bar on an upper level of Grand Central, accessible only by knowing the right elevator to take. (I’m not sure why people insist on calling it “secret” – there is a massive sign carved into the stone of the main atrium of Grand Central that says something like “To Campbell Apartment. But, out-of-the-way elevator, I guess.) TBDIT and I had been wanting to try it out, but hadn’t yet gotten around to it. We located the elevator and made our way up, and were happy to see that it was very much open. We were seated at a table on a balcony level of the bar, which allowed for a really wonderful overview of the place, which is as plush and posh as I had assumed it would be.
The Campbell Apartment is thus called because it once served as the private offices of a tycoon guy called John Campbell, who engaged in some sort of fancy business in the 1920s. They’ve refurbished the space to reflect that era, and they serve cocktails that apparently do the same. The place is equal parts charming and depressing. Charming because you really do feel transported back to a different era; depressing because that era is long-gone. Still, there is an inoffensive mix of jazz standards and crooners playing just loud enough to set a mood, which is exactly how loud bar music should be (and rarely is). Sidebar: I’ve recently started working my way through the first three seasons of Boardwalk Empire, and I will need to return to the Campbell Apartment again just to spend an hour or two pretending I’m the indomitable Margaret Shroeder/Thompson.
TBDIT ordered the Kentucky Ginger, which was outrageously delicious and contained the key ingredients of bourbon, fresh ginger, and rosemary. I was less successful with my order, choosing a rum and grenadine drink called the Roaring Twenties, which was just one or two notches sweeter than I hoped it would be. When I return as Margaret Shroeder/Thompson, I will most definitely be ordering the Kentucky Ginger, and I’d recommend it to anyone who enjoys happiness.
With the impending blizzard, we enjoyed a very low-key Friday night at the Campbell Apartment. It was filled up but not crowded, and we got to enjoy an uncharacteristically unbusy evening there thanks to the snow. By the time we wandered back out into Grand Central a couple of hours later, the place was near deserted. As it turned out, they were closing it at midnight, since there were to be no trains coming in or out during the worst of the blizzard in the early morning hours. Those of us who were inside could stay until then, but once you left, you weren’t allowed back in. Neither of us was in any hurry to get home, so we spent a while wandering around the back corridors of the place, mellowed by our cocktails but a little giddy with the opportunity to have a virtually private audience with one of the busiest transportation hubs in the world, to be inside a closed building that never closes. It was so quiet and calm and deserted. We wandered and slowly made our way back to the subway down below and got onto our trains to be transported back to the real, snowy world. It was lovely and surreal, and I won’t forget it. Thanks, blizzard!

On Saturday morning, Bubba, Dr. Poo and I made it a point to wake up early to get out to Central Park in time to get some good sledding in before things got packed. We made our way out of the apartment by about 8:15 am, which is as reasonably early as any childless twenty-somethings can be expected to. We made it to the big hill near the entrance at East 79th Street (apparently called Cedar Hill) and found that we were far from the first to arrive. But I was delighted not just by the winter wonderland, but also by the realization that we were early enough to witness/experience the magic that is the early morning hours in Central Park – that is, Central Park as Dog Heaven. I’ve experienced this once before, last summer, when my friend K and I camped out in the early morning line for free Shakespeare in the Park tickets the Delacorte Theater. We arrived at around 7 am then, along with a few thousand other fellow queue-ers, and that was when I learned that between dawn and about 9 am, Central Park is filled with leash-free pups and their owners out for a little early morning freedom. For a dog-lover like me, it is Heaven. As we waited in line for our tickets last summer, we were greeted by tons of delighted dogs making their way down the never-ending line of attention.

I was equally as charmed by the early morning dog party happening on this blizzard February Saturday. There were unleashed dogs everywhere, running, tumbling, barking, playing, chasing sleds, and eating snow. There were children sledding and parents pushing and taking photos. It was just all so lovely. Bubba, Dr. Poo and I sledded for a while down Cedar Hill, dodging kids and dogs alike, and eventually made our way around some of the best of Central park by foot. We sledded down snow-covered staircases under bridges, we lobbed giant snowballs into the sludgy-frozen waters of the Conservatory, we sledded down the grand staircase at Bethesda Fountain, and we walked the Mall beneath the great snow-covered canopy of American elm trees. As it turns out, Central Park is a veritable winter wonderland after a blizzard, and I’m so glad that I was treated to the experience this winter, as it will be my last winter in Manhattan, at least for a while.

We made our way back to the apartment with a quick stop at the grocery store. We set about cooking up a feast of a brunch, ate too much, and then spent the rest of the day being as lazy as possible. By late-afternoon, I was ready for a drink, and knew that the Manhattan was clearly the only proper choice for the occasion. So finally, a few words about the Manhattan.
The Manhattan is simple and straightforward. Whiskey, sweet vermouth, dash of bitters. A maraschino cherry, if you want. It’s a strong and aromatically sweet drink. I’ve since tried a dry Manhattan, which you make with dry vermouth instead of sweet, and probably prefer that. Though, all-in-all, the Manhattan is not my drink. There’s a symbolic significance to this, which I’ll expand upon soon, but for now I’ll say that nothing could have rounded out such a lovely weekend like a Manhattan made with Manhattan snow. The clean kind, to be sure.
